Mincemeat is a once-a-year pleasure for me – a few tarts from the right bakery at Christmas are all I need. But this Covid/baking year, when I bought some from the wrong bakery and was repelled by the palm-oil aftertaste, my first reaction was: “I can do better than this.”
And so it began. The
research: what’s in mincemeat, anyway? The action: should I actually try to
make the filling, or just buy a jar? The dreadful dilemma of pastry: should I
stoop to buying it or, with sufficient strenuous effort, conquer a lifetime of
tough crusts? (Always remembering the melt-in-your mouth pastry my mother
whipped together so effortlessly with her bare, capable hands.)
Mom made one mincemeat pie a year – for
me, I think – and always used bought filling, so I tried the same route. But
Save-On’s “traditional” mincemeat was cloying and my effort at pastry, though
tasty, had the texture of cardboard. Aiming higher, I turned to a baking
website (address below) for a filling made of apples, raisins, currants,
walnuts, spices, brandy and – the coup de grace – home-made candied peel (“it makes such a difference,
trust us.”) And so even before I began making the filling, I was twice- boiling
oranges and lemons in water, gutting and scraping them until the skins were
translucent, then stewing them in syrup, producing a golden bowl of glowing
citrus skins.
The result was
delicious, if a little heavy on the peel. But the pastry problem remained, probably because I stubbornly refuse to use a food processor (mom did
it with her hands, why not me?) No matter how much I chill the bowl, the flour,
the butter and sugar, cut it together until it’s just the right consistency and
add tiny dribbles of ice-water, that pastry wants to be hard. I
tried different recipes, I tried different tart sizes, I experimented with
cooking times, but the results were sad.
And so, my fantasies of
producing tiny tasteful gift boxes of perfect pastries for friends will remain
just that. If I work on my baking skills (or succumb to mechanical aid) in the
next year, perhaps there’ll be mincemeat tarts for Christmas, 2021.
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For those who can't wait that long, here's the recipe site and an encouraging quote:
https://www.baked-theblog.com/mincemeat-tarts/
"These are, of course, a bit more time consuming than store bought mincemeat and pastry shells, but it’s very well worth it. Take the time to make your own candied peel, mincemeat, and pie dough – if you think you don’t like mincemeat tarts, 100% homemade might change your mind."
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Once boiled in sugar syrup, these peels will be almost see-through. |
Granny Smith apples and the zest and juice of an additional lemon add zing to the filling. |
The filling also includes raisins, currents, walnuts, brown sugar, spices and butter, with brandy added after it's cooked. |
That darn pastry. Up to this point, it looks perfect. |
Plastic-wrapped for chilling, the pastry then has to be unchilled sufficiently to be workable. |
The results. I've put some away in the freezer, and at the rate we're going, I suspect they'll all be gone by Christmas. Whatever their appearance, they really are delicious. |
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